Cape Coast Castle

This past weekend I went to Cape Coast Castle, one of the main castles that was used to keep slaves before sending them on to the Americas. My tour guide wasn't great. He cracked a few jokes (inappropriate, much?) and he didn't give many details beyond what each room was, but it was still an interesting experience and I was affected by several things I saw.



The dungeons would hold between 600 and 1,000 people, for anywhere between 2 weeks and 6 months. They were very very tiny rooms, and slaves were forced to sleep on the rock floor, maybe with a mat. There was a think track through the middle of the room that would carry urine out to the sea, and there were boxes in the corner for other waste. If the boxes filled up, one had no choice but to go along the edges of the room. When the castle was first excavated years ago, the excrement was piled up about 2 feet around the dungeons. There was either no sunlight, or maybe a VERY tiny window to let in minimal light. Men and women were separated in different dungeons, and were reunited at the end of a tunnel running from the dungeons to "the door of no return." The door opens about 15 feet from the water, and it was where the slaves were brought aboard the ships.

The first thing that struck me was the church that was in the castle, literally right above the male dungeons. I just couldn't believe people could worship and praise God in that place, knowing full well everything that was happening just beneath them. The next thing that really hit me was how out of place the castle seemed to be with the rest of its surroundings. Not that a slave castle should really belong anywhere . . . but the ocean is so bright blue and beautiful, and there are palm trees everywhere. I can't help but think of how the slaves probably never even got to think about that, and even if they did they certainly could not have enjoyed the view.

The last thing that has stuck with me is that the only thing separating me from the slave trade is time. It could easily have been me, my friends, and my family that were trading slaves, making chains, using cotton, eating sugar, voting down legislation to abolish the trade . . . anything. I'd like to tell myself that I would still have been the voice of dissention calling for peace and justice, but the reality is I can't. Chances are, I wouldn't have. The only reason I'm able to speak out against injustice today is because I've been able to learn from history and the mistakes of others. I also wonder what things are occurring in the world that I am a part of--either actively or passively.

At the beginning of the tour, we saw a plaque inscribed into the building that reads: In everlasting memory of the anguish of our ancestors. May those who died rest in peace; may those who return find their roots; may humanity never again perpetrate such injustice against humanity. We, the living, vow to uphold this. Indeed, I hope that I am doing my part to uphold this promise that no human should suffer like that again.

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The rest of the weekend was not nearly so solemn. On Sunday morning we went to Kakum National Park, one of the only places in Ghana that still has natural rainforest which has not been destroyed. We did a canopy walk 40m in the air on thin wooden suspension bridges. (Dad, the walk was definitely not your thing!) I didn't get to see any animals, but the view was absolutely breathtaking. It also rained a bit! Barely . . . really, it was about 3 sprinkled drops . . . but it was something! And afterall we were in the rainforest, so it was fitting. For lunch we went to Hans Cottage, a cool restaurant on top of a lake with crocodiles. They mostly stayed underwater but I got to see a few.

Also good news! PICTURES WILL BE AVAILABLE VERY SHORTLY!!!!!! I succeeded in uploading a few this morning to an external site. I'll try to get the link in here soon once I finish uploading them and adding captions. Apparently there's some way to put pictures directly on here but I haven't figured it out yet. We shall see. Very very soon, though, I promise you will have photographic evidence that I am alive and well and loving every minute here!