Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Sex Ed and Soccer and Thieves (Oh My!!)

Last Wednesday was another great day at my internship. I went to a school near the office and taught adolescent reproductive health to a large group of students, mostly around 5th/6th grade age, and a few junior high kids. I remembered my high school health teacher passed around little slips of paper for us to write down questions anonymously if we were too embarassed to ask them aloud, so I tried that too. Only two questions were asked out loud, and I was AMAZED at the questions I got. There were probably 50 questions handed in! I was expecting all of the kids to laugh the whole time and be very immature, but instead they were engaged and curious. Sex and reproductive health is not discussed much here. Some of my American friends taking classes here about gender and reproduction and have been shocked at what people think and know (or don't know). So, it was very cool that I was able to answer so many questions. I had to do some research myself before giving my presentation, just to make sure I covered everything . . . but I didn't even realize some of the things I had left out until the questions came in, like explaining what happens during a miscarriage. And my favorite question -- "Please, Madam, what does a vagina DO?" -- which I had already covered, but evidently not well enough. :) Anyway, I didn't get to finish answering all of the questions, and some answers I was not 100% sure about, so I am going back at some point this week to wrap things up.

Then last weekend my program took us all to Kumasi. Kumasi is the heart of the Ashanti empire (which ruled Ghana prior to the slave trade and colonialism). It is famous for adinkra symbols (each has a different meaning and is found on fabric, wood carvings, and other things in Ghana) and kente cloth (woven, and made in unique patterns for important individuals such as chiefs and the President). AND . . . on Sunday there was a 2010 football (soccer) world cup qualifying match between Ghana and Benin in Kumasi, so we got to go! The game was INSANE!!!!!!! Absolutely insane!!!!! We showed up several hours early to get good seats, because even though everyone technically has a seat number, it's not really honored; your ticket only guarantees you a spot in your section. There were tons of large groups there that had brought drums, horns, other instruments, and everybody was dancing! For HOURS before, during, and after the game! Also, Ghanaians take body painting to the extreme - they don't just paint their chests. They wear speedos and paint their entire bodies! It was extremely exciting. For the second half of the game, I jumped right in the middle of one of the large masses of Ghanaians. There were about 5 guys in the front row coordinating everybody, so after a while my friends Ben, Liz, and I went up and helped teach some American line dances. (And let me tell you, watching about 200 excited Ghanaian soccer fans doing the Chicken Dance and the Macarena is probably one of the happiest moments of my life!) And, of course Ghana won (1-0, and that goal was scored in the first 30 seconds of the game)!

The hotel we stayed at was amazing . . . which actually kind of bothered me. The Black Stars (Ghana's national soccer team) stayed at the same hotel, if that is any kind of indication of just how nice a place it was. CIEE always puts us up in nice places that have air conditioning and swimming pools, but this place definitely topped any hotel I have ever been in - EVER, anywhere. Apparently Mr. Gyasi, my program director, had some connections and got us a deal so we weren't paying full price for the rooms (which, by the way, START at US $109 per night). But that's not the point. Back home, I would have been absolutely ecstatic that I was staying in the same hotel as really famous people . . . but here I was just uncomfortable with it for most of the weekend. I'm sure my room was even more than $109 because we were all in doubles, not singles (though we were sharing rooms). $109 (or more) is enough to cover me for several WEEKS here in Ghana - food, transportation, necessities, and even spending money. WEEKS. So two nights at that hotel is more than enough money for an entire month in Ghana. I really appreciate everything CIEE does for us, and it's definitely nice to have these trips spread out over the semester where I know 100% for certain that the shower won't stop running right after I shampoo my hair. But I also felt overwhelming guilt every time we pulled up to the hotel. I'd like to be able to tell myself that at least acknowledging what I have is the first step . . . but I know it's not enough. I know I had fun this weekend, and I also know I, an American college student, have memories from this weekend that most Ghanaians, and many Americans, will never have their entire lives.

Also, more excitement at the game . . . I was pickpocketed, but I got my wallet back!! I was standing with three of my friends, separated from the crowd, and waiting for others to catch up. I had been digging through my purse shifting things around since I had just bought some water and snacks. All of a sudden two guys walked right through the middle of our group and pushed against me (REALLY dumb on their part, because I knew immediately what was going on. Had I been walking through the middle of a crowd, I probably would have been caught unawares. But as I said, I was separated from crowded areas). Anyway, I thought I was being smart because I knew what was happening, so I watched the guy who was pushed up against me. I think his friend must have grabbed my wallet though, so I fell right into their diversion trap. But the second they stepped away, I looked in my purse, saw my wallet was gone, and turned around chasing after him yelling that the man's friend had just stolen my wallet (I hadn't seen his friend's face). Now, before everyone freaks out that I was running after a thief, let me say two things: 1) I would not have done this were I not at a crowded soccer match and 2) that is what you are supposed to do in Ghana. Stealing is HIGHLY frowned upon in Ghana - not just because it is morally wrong, but also because of the sense of community in which everybody is responsible for each other. It is acceptable - and expected - for people to reprimand and disciple other people's children. In the same way, when one person steals from another, Ghanaians feel personally responsible and embarassed by the thief's actions. So, as I anticipated (and as Mr. Gyasi had told us early on in the semester that this would happen), when I drew attention to the scene, immediately 10 Ghanaians swarmed over to ask what was going on. I'm not sure they ever figured out who the man's friend was, but somebody saw my wallet had been thrown on the ground, picked it up, and returned it to me. Yay for Ghanaian sense of community!

Other than that, the semester is beginning to wind down. I only have 3 weeks of lectures left, then 1 week of I'm-not-exactly-sure-what-happens (I have heard there are no classes, and I have heard there are classes and the professor preps you for the exam, so I don't know), and then 3 weeks of exams & travel time.

Also, I know everybody wants to see more pictures. Believe me, I'm TRYING! But not having my own computer really complicates things. Most of the free and cheap internet cafes here don't let you upload external content. I have gone a few times to ones where I pay, only to find my camera is not compatible with the computer. I am at one that will let me upload, so I'm going to try in just a few minutes to see if my camera will work.

2 comments:

Rachel said...

haha, embarrassingly enough, i'm kind of jealous you actually had someone pickpocket you. people tried a couple of times in kenya but never got anything from me, so i never got to chase anyone down. mildly disappointing. i'm so weird...

also, holy crap, that soccer match must have been sweet!

La Rogala said...

Officially my favorite question ever!! "Please madam, but what does a vagina do?" LOVE IT. Goes right in front of a british 4 yr old asking for a dagger. If you don't think that's funny just imagine a little british girls voice asking. "Can I have a dagger daddy, please can i have dagger."